A model wears the black melton wool peacoat from Percival over patterned trousers, holding a black leather bag in a studio.

A Guide to Men’s Pea Coats

What do Liam Gallagher, Dutch sailors, Bruce Springsteen, Michael B. Jordan, Daniel Craig, and Robert Redford have in common? Here’s a clue — it’s pea coats. They have all, at one point or another, worn the absolute back legs off of a pea coat, and you can too.

What is a pea coat?

Pea Coats are, essentially, short, double-breasted, woolen or cotton twill jackets, and they’re generally navy blue. You’re familiar with pea coats — if you were a self-respecting British guitar pop/rock band in the swinging sixties and you weren’t wearing a pea coat, well… There’s no end to that sentence, because you simply were wearing a pea coat.

What is the difference between a pea coat and an overcoat?

The most instantly obvious difference between the two is that a peacoat is cut shorter than an overcoat, typically coming down to around hip length whilst an overcoat hangs lower. Pea Coats are always double-breasted, whereas overcoats are often singular in the breast department.

Should pea coats be buttoned or unbuttoned?

You do you. Don’t let us—or anyone else—tell you what to do with your buttons. It all depends on the outfit and the weather, and personal preference, doesn’t it?

When to wear a pea coat?

Autumn and spring are pea coat high season. When there’s a perceivable nip in the air but no more than a nip. Not, like, a perceivable horse-bite of cold in the air — just a little chill or a merciful thawing that says the seasons, they are a-changing. That’s your pea coat window.

Are pea coats warm?

That thick cotton twill or wool is going to keep you plenty warm, especially with the double-breasted action in the front, and the collar you can flip up against the wind if needs be. As you’ll find out later, pea coats were originally created for the Dutch navy and later adapted by the British navy — those sailors needed to stay warm on roof seas.

That’s actually the reason for the pea coat’s short length, too. Sailors needed to be warm but also able to move freely as they went about their duties. Leaving the legs exposed allowed for free movement, making the pea coat practical and bloody stylish.

Are pea coats waterproof?

Whilst not strictly waterproof, unless you hurl yourself into the Atlantic (or any body of water, really), no water is making its way through that lush melton wool of the Percival Pea Coat in olive. And it if it does take on a little moisture, it’s still going to keep you nice and toasty — that’s one of the many reasons the pea coat was so popular with sailors.

History of the Pea Coat

Why is it called a pea coat?

Perci, I’ve always wondered — why is a pea coat called a pea coat? Are they made out of dried-up pea skin? Were they invented by a peacock? Did people in the Northeast of England use them as a sort of apron whilst eating their pease pudding back in the day?

None of the above, but there are no silly suggestions here. The name actually comes from the Dutch word pijjekker, which is apparently Dutch for a short jacket made of blue cotton twill. That’s according to a 1975 edition of The Mariner’s Mirror, which we’d be very interested in reading.

There are tales of pea coats being used in the Dutch navy as far back as the 16th century. That means that, if William Shakespeare had been a Dutch sailor, there’s every chance Hamlet would’ve been saying to pea or not to pea, instead of whatever he actually says.

How to style a pea coat

Smart

Whilst pea coats were originally designed for practical means, they were often used as formalwear by sailors. They can be part of a very smart outfit if paired with the right outfit. We recommend a Poplin Shirt on top, and a pair of Tailored Trousers on your bottom half paired with our Navy Pea Coat. You’ll be the smartest fella on the Seven Seas.

Smart-Casual

If you don’t want to be the shiniest haddock on the waves—maybe you’re going for a chill salmon vibe—a men’s pea coat can do both. Grab yourself a Knitted Polo and a pair of Straight Leg Trousers pop your pea coat over the top and Roberto’s your papa’s fratello.

Casual

Men’s pea coats are versatile. If you want to rock a pea coat to the after-work drinks, to the supermarket, to walk the dog—you bloody well can. Paired with a high-quality T-shirt and a well-fitting pair of Jeans, and you simply can’t go wrong.

Are pea coats in style in 2025?

Yes, very much so. As the song goes:

Dressed smart like a London bloke

Before he speak, his suit bespoke

And you thought he was cute before

Look at his pea coat, tell me he’s broke

How to Choose a Pea Coat

When deciding on which pea coat to go for, there are a few things to take into account, mainly fabric, colour, and how it’s going to combine with your fits. Perci’s pea coats are all made with the finest Melton wool, so no problem there. In terms of colour, that’s totally up to you—if you find one colour brings out your eyes better, you go for it, mate.

How should a Pea Coat fit?

You should be able to comfortably move your arms in a pea coat, but it should be snug across the chest and arms. Snug, but not too snug, basically.

Can you wear a pea coat with jeans?

Of course you can. A pea coat with a nice pair of Jeans is a classic smart casual fit. Maybe go for a darker pair of jeans and a smart pair of Shoes to bring the look together. We’re all for experimentation but light jeans and trainers with a peacoat runs the risk of looking like you’ve photoshopped two different people on top of each other.

What to layer under a peacoat?

If you’re wearing a pea coat, chances are it’s not particularly warm outside. Pea coats are made of wool and are brilliant at keeping the wind at bay, especially with that big collar turned up against it. With that in mind, a fairly non-chunky jumper works well under a pea coat—something like this Cable Knit Jumper. Alternatively, a Knitted Polo is always a good choice. As long as it’s made of a fairly slim fabric and it complements the rest of your fit, go nuts.

Can you wear a peacoat over a suit?

Absolutely, just make sure your suit jacket isn’t poking out below the bottom of your pea coat.

Pea Coat Care Guide

How to wash a pea coat

The best way to wash a pea coat is to flip it inside out and soak it in cold water with a gentle detergent for 30 minutes or so. If it’s in a bad way, e.g. you have yeeted yourself into a local duck pond and your pea coat is now stained and riddled with algae—make that water warm and give it an extra half an hour.