How To Wear Pleated Trousers
Men’s Trousers Style Guide
Are pleated trousers formal or casual?
Definitely both. That all depends on how you style them. They began as most casual, practical wear for men who were physically active, then they became formal, smart attire. Now, you can style them with casual wear and trainers if you like, or they can be the centrepiece of an ultra-smart, formal fit. That’s why they’re so great.
What are pleated trousers?
Did you watch The Traitors, and did you see Stephen’s myriad 70s-inspired outfits? That man was wearing the absolute hell out of pleated trousers on an almost daily basis. They are the secret behind his style and the reason he was able to pull off those wide-collared shirts. It’s all in the pleats.
What are pleats, though? They are those little folds you see sewn into the waistband of your trousers. They create that pleasing line down the leg, and they cinch your trousers in to fit your waist, whilst allowing extra space for your thighs and your mighty powerful booty cheeks.
Where did pleated trousers originate?
Pleating itself actually predates trousers. According to the boffins in our (definitely real) history department, Egyptians were pleating robes 5,000 years ago as a show of wealth and status. That idea travelled to Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, where they began pleating togas and chitons (also to boast high social status) in what might be the first recorded instance of cultural appropriation. That last part might be a bit of a stretch. Who’s to say? We simply can’t know.
Anyway, pleated trousers are a Victorian invention to increase space for movement and prevent bagging in the knees. As with all practical innovations in menswear, they became a fashion statement a few decades later. A tale as old as time.
Are pleated trousers in fashion today?
God, yes. Did you read that opening paragraph? Did you not watch The Traitors? We’d pleat this article if we could.
Types of pleated trousers you should know
Welcome to Percival’s quickfire pleated trouser guide for everything you ever wanted to know about pleats. Finally, the content you’ve all been waiting for:
What is a forward pleat?
The little fold at the waist comes from out to in, or back to front, if your bellybutton is the front. This style is more typical of British tailoring.
What is a reverse pleat?
These ones go from front to back, as you’d imagine. Italians love a reverse pleat.
What is a single pleat?
One fold on each side of the fly. Easy.
What is a double pleat?
Two folds on each side of the fly. NEXT!
What is an inverted pleat?
The fabric is sort of nipped together, with the excess coming in towards the body, and then sewn so that you essentially have to pleats of equal size, close together, going in opposite directions.
How to style pleated trousers
If you’re not tucking whatever shirt you’re wearing into your pleated trousers, you are doing them a grave disservice. Pleated trousers lengthen your leg, sit perfectly at your waist, and lend themselves to classy and casual looks, and it all begins at that waistband. Don’t hide their light under a bushel. Or a sloppy overhanging shirt.
Shirts, knits and tucking rules
You can feel free to wear a Knitted Polo, Cuban Collar Shirt, Poplin Shirt, even a Cotton T-shirt with your pleated trousers. In fact, chuck a Jumper on if you like—you have our permission. Let’s address the tucking rules, though: In general, personally, we’d always tuck into a pair of pleated trousers, but you must show initiative. If you’re wearing a white vest under your open Cuban collar shirt, for example, you can absolutely let that Cuban flow over the waist band. WIth a knitted jumper, it’s a judgement call. It’s bold to tuck a jumper in, but if that jumper is made of a fairly unchunky knit and you have the inner fortitude, this can be a killer fit. Takes a certain kind of man to pull off a tucked jumper—if you’ve woken up at less than 100% confidence in yourself, do not attempt. If you’re feeling it, however, the world is yours for the taking.
Jackets and overshirts that work best
Most Overshirts will work in perfect symbiosis with pleated trousers. The key, as we’ve discussed, is to ensure those trousers are given the proper respect and prominence they deserve. Try a Casentino paired with a white T-shirt, and leave it open to display the glory of those pleats (just as the model in the link is). The Calabria Harrington jacket is also an ideal match for pleated trousers. Anything with a cropped waist is going to show off your pleated trousers expertly, in fact. A better tip, we cannot impart.
What footwear to wear with pleated trousers
Because pleated trousers actually sit at your natural waist, they create the illusion of leg length even if you’re a stocky king, meaning you can show off your footwear without your trousers covering it like the baggy goth jeans you wore (or didn’t wear… We’re basing this on personal experience) to your Year 6 disco in 2002. For a smart look, Loafers or Padrors. For a more casual fit, Wallabies or Boaters.
Choosing the right fabric and fit
Fabric and fit is key, always. This goes for literally any outfit. Picking the wrong fabric for your fit can be fatal, stylewise. Let’s discuss.
Wool vs linen pleated trousers
Wool Pleated Trousers are versatile but also more useful in a formal setting. They’ll keep their shape and lend themself to a classic suit. Linen Pleated Trousers can be equally smart as part of a Linen Suit, but will naturally keep a less rigid shape than wool trousers. Bear this in mind when putting your outfit together. Cotton Trousers are a nice midway point if you’re torn between wool and linen.
For an absolutely perfect and bang-up-to-date casual look, however, you simply cannot beat a pair of Pleated Jeans. Trust us on this one. Pair with just about anything for guaranteed perfection.
High-waisted vs mid-rise fits
High-waisted fits are ideal for a pleated trouser, especially for a tall/slim build. Those trouser legs will flow luxuriously and billow subtly to create the perfect legline. For body builds with slightly less torso length, perhaps go for a mid-rise fit to even out the appearance of those leg and upper body measurements.
Wide-leg vs tapered pleated trousers
Wide-leg trousers give a more casual feel and complement the long-legged fellows out there. For more formal events or if you’re a man of less length legs, perhaps plum for a tapered fit.
